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SEALING BOTTLES

There are a number of ways to seal the most problematic zone between a cap and a glass bottle. Particularly sealing with ordinary paraffin and "M" parafflm was considered. Transparent wood varnish sealing is perfect, but removing it is almost impossible. Sealing with a transparent nail polish leads to cracking in time and inevitably to evaporation due to the broken coating. Wax sealing is also perfect, but because of its almost impossible removal and change in the visualization of the bottle, I find it unacceptable. Due to the impossible removal, closure with other adhesives or silicone is again unsatisfactory.

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Sealing with parafilm "M" and width 5cm.:

Available in stores and e-bay. You can pick up on an e-bay or a familiar quantity because a 38-meter roll will be too much for you. I use it to close bottles with corks (Macallan, Knockando and others), which are usually with a polyethylene coating on them or plastic caps, as well as bottles with labels or banderols on the caps.

1. Try as hard as you can to find the best condition of the cap so it does not spin. Squeeze it well or rotate it. Try to reduce the air between the polyethylene coating and the bottle.

2. Cut a band of the required width so that it is possible to cover the top of the cap and a part below the polyethylene strip. This way you will have a strip of the width and length of 5 cm.

3. Always use alcohol wipes to clean the surface and throat where you will lay the tape. I use brandy and "wet wipes" for this purpose.

4. It is necessary to rotate the strap around the neck of the bottle so that it is evenly stretched and exercise a strong tension to obtain sufficient stretch of the strap. When the paraffilm ''M'' band is rotated and stretched with the help of an unfolded finger, and with the other hand turning the bottle, it results in simultaneous stretching of the entire width of the strip and tight adhesion to the bottle. It is necessary to apply a sufficiently strong tension to obtain stretching of the tape for better adhesion. A strip of 5 cm length is extended many times and is sufficient to fill over three complete spins of a standard small bottle.

The mistakes I have seen to be admitted and lead to subsequent evaporation are that the band when laid around the neck of the bottle is not tight enough. After time, temperature and temperature differences, the tape is relaxed and thus, parafilm ''M'' closure is compromised. Many collectors use parafilm ''M'' for all bottles of their collections. This is easy to implement. It does not take much time. The bottle in use or sale is easily released from the tape. A good appearance of the bottle after sealing is obtained. As the seasonal differences in temperatures in me have large variations, which in years lead to loosening / loosening of the strip itself, for me this way of sealing is not preferred.

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Paraffin sealing:

You need a melting pot and paraffin.
- The metal melting pot for paraffin can be provided by purchasing a can. It is good to take one in which the bottom is a whole, and not made by separate components with the walls. Otherwise, repeated heat / cold use may occur. Cans /paste, RioMare, etc./ are suitable and withstand multiple exploitation.
- Of course, paraffin need to be as transparent as possible. It is not advisable to use a high-hardness paraffin, because it can subsequently crack, scrape, or cause bullets. It is easy to see if paraffin is appropriate. When you clamp the claw with force in it and shake lightly, it must remain slotted and not cut off individual pieces. Over the years, I have found that the ordinary paraffin is best. In Bulgaria are sold candles with enough soft paraffin and tested for many years. There are many different candles in the shop network, but when I've tried most of them, paraffin is rusting in the future because it's too hard or too white and it breaks the vision of the bottle.

1. Always use alcohol wipes to clean the surface of the cap and throat where paraffin will be applied. I use brandy and "wet wipes" for this purpose.

2. Chop paraffin into the metal container and place it on the hot plate. It is necessary to leave at a temperature that is constant but strong enough to hold the paraffin in the liquid state. Paraffin is suitable for manipulation when it starts very lightly. At the same time, care must be taken, as if it starts too much to smoke it is possible to ignite. At a lower temperature of the paraffin a too thick layer of paraffin is obtained. Specifically, I hold the 4th grade hotplate of 6 possible and the metal bowl at the end of the hot plate. By squeezing out or inward, I regulate the temperature of the heat so that it keeps very light smoke. The whole procedure requires a little test, so try a test bottle in advance.

3. When the paraffin smokes lightly, immerse and immediately remove the bottle so that the paraffin covers the entire cap and about 4-5mm from the neck of the bottle. As soon as it is still hot and in a liquid state it is necessary to turn the bottle with both hands a few times. In this way hot paraffin is spread evenly and no drops are formed. Sufficient 4-5 turns to harden the paraffin.

4. A few minutes after the paraffin has cooled down, it is necessary to run the bottle again. It's usually enough to run the dip at least twice. On the first dip, a very thin film is formed and the voids fill between the cap and the glass. The second immersion is to form a complete continuous and undamaged coating. Sometimes 3 dives are needed. It all depends on the temperature you maintain on the warm paraffin, whether the cap is damaged and does not scroll, and so on. From the rotation you make on the bottle and the spreading of the paraffin, usually the part between the glass and the bottom of the ring is well-filled. If you doubt a suitably applied layer in the area between the ring and the cap, the best solution is to re-immerse the bottle. Always check that the space between the ring and the bottle cap is well covered, because even if there is even a minimum hole without cover, all of the contents will evaporate from this neurological zone.

The errors that are allowed are:
- Allowing a loose and compromised coating between the bottle ring and the cap;
- Coating with a too thick paraffin layer, which in time leads to the appearance of cavities filled with air;
- Too thin coating, which creates a danger of areas accessible for interaction between liquid and air;
- Use of ''hard'' paraffin, leading to decomposition and deterioration of the paraffin coating.

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Whisky minibottles